This dish is said to come from Languedoc and to take its name from the glazed earthenware pot known as a cassole: narrow at the bottom and wide-mouthed at the top. It became special to me when I walked across the Pyrenees from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. After a hard day’s trekking, finding a refuge serving cassoulet with a glass of wine was the perfect end to the day. This is my version.

In my late teens and early twenties, I went Interrailing around Europe, taking ferries, sleeping on rooftops and camping on beaches. I had very little money, but a two-mile walk into town was rewarded with pork souvlaki in pitta, washed down with a cold beer from the local shop. Serve this with tzatziki, chilli sauce, parsley salad and pitta bread. To save time, you can buy the pitta and tzatziki. See my other recipes for accompaniments that complement this simple dish.

There are many stories about the origins and ingredients of carbonara, from American GIs calling it a ‘spaghetti breakfast’ to its association with charcoal makers. The best version I came across was while working with a Sardinian chef called Martin. It is very simple, with no cream. Take care with the salt, as the guanciale and pecorino are already quite salty. I also add basil to the cheese and egg mixture.